T4 Tear Down / Rebuild in Jax FL

[Lo Cash John]

Just remove the 16 head studs is all.

Before removal, spray them with PB Blaster for several days and let it soak in to the threads. You shouldn't have any problems removing them after that.

[Clatter]

Head studs suck to remove.

No fun at all.

Always seems that double-nutting is not enough,
So you have to use the double-nut technique _and_ some of those angled channel=locks,
Like I show in my thread to remove rocker studs..
It chews up the studs a bit,
So avoid it if you can.

Some light heat from a propane/MAPP torch to the case might help, too..

[Clatter]

also pull the two engine/trans studs, and the two long skinny oil cooler studs, too..

[Bruce.m]

Heat to 50C

Aluminium expands more than steel, with heat. At circa 50-60C the grip on the stud will be significantly less and it reduces the risk of ripping out the threads.

[analogtherapy]

Thanks for all the suggestions about the head/case studs. I tried double nutting alone and stopped applying pressure when I could see the stud itself twisting. I've been hosing them down with liquid wrench, but no budge yet. Vise grips didn't help much either. I still need to pick up a torch, so I'll try that when I have it.

I do have a couple of other questions at the moment: After much advise and research, I decided to go with solid lifters. I only have the hydro pushrods, so I've placed my order for some aluminum (270mm) pushrods.

Question 1: Can i use my stock 2.0L rockers (10mm) assuming I convert them to using the rocker spacers (solid aluminum spacers from FAT for example)?

Question 2: I read on another STF post that "All solid lifter T4 engines are dual-relief from the factory. All hydraulic lifter T4 engines are single-relief from the factory." Is there any issue with running solid lifters in a single relief case?

Thanks all, I'm really close to ordering the bulk of my parts...

[Piledriver]

No issue running solid lifters in a later case.

[surfwagon]

Some light heat from a propane/MAPP torch to the case might help, too..
Yes this is what worked for me , not much heat around the base of each stud and they came loose right away. Double nutting was fine , though seem to also remember large vice grips at the base of the stud which would obviously help reduce the twisting in the length of the stud just to get it loose .

[Lo Cash John]

Try NOT to use channel locks, vise-grips, etc to remove studs. Teeth marks and gouges in the studs make stress risers and that's not good.

Use penetrating oil (I like a brand called FREE), heat and patience. If double nutting doesn't work, go to triple nut, and more patience.

[Piledriver]

More heat too.

[TZepeSH]

I had issues with head studs not long ago. I made a penetraring oil by mixing acetone and ATF in a small spray bottle. They do not mix, so you have to shake the spray bottle very well before application.
Combined with heat, and more heat, and double nut.

[analogtherapy]

Thanks for the info gents. I picked up a torch yesterday, but ended up spending the rest of the afternoon scrubbing parts (before getting roasted out of my garage, dang FL heat). I plan on revisiting the head studs this weekend.

Things are starting to move now. I dropped the crank off to have it inspected, gears pulled, polished and cleaned. I was able to get in on the very next batch of heads from HAM (last square port on the shelf). Len is a super nice guy and took plenty of time answering my questions. He even offered to sell me his set of 10mm swivel adjusters (http://www.tp-technologie.de/produkte%2 ... h%20en.htm), but I'm thinking I'll just stick with the stock adjusters. Mine have light pitting marks, but I think they'll do just fine with some sanding to make them perfectly smooth again. To be honest, it's the thought of grinding the rockers down to make them work, and the change in geometry that freaks me out a bit.

[Lo Cash John]

You can buy them here:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds ... id=2038548

Grinding the rockers is nothing, but if you want, the guy that imports and sells the adjusters can mod the rockers for you. As for valvetrain geometry, that needs to be checked and adjusted on ANY engine build no matter what adjusters are used. Assuming the case gets decked (machine the surface where the cylinders rest) and the heads are flycut (machine surface where cylinders seal against head) at all, the geometry is going to be wrong. This is because the heads are now slightly closer to the case and therefore the pushrods are to long.

When you build the top end, plan on using an adjustable pushrod to figure out the correct pushrod length needed. Since you have to do this anyway, you may as well add the swivel adjusters.

[Piledriver]

The swivel feet can do wonders for valve guide life, and eliminate tip cupping etc.

[Lo Cash John]

What he said.

[Clatter]

^^X3^^

While you will screw your mouth into funny shapes getting it right,
And it might take an entire weekend,
Getting your valvetrain geometry 100% correct is one of the best things you can do to make your motor last.
(Along with swivel feet)

My 'Cheap Junk' build didn't have a set of Len's heads,
And,
I lucked into decent/good geometry just by how the parts just ended up fitting.

Had there been any less luck, a set of cut-your-own pushrods would have gotten ordered.

Plus,
While others might disagree,
I love steel pushrods.
Easy to adjust, quiet at startup and sane operating temps, just all-around more elegant, IMHO..
All they have usually needed was checking, not adjusting, for years now.

If my 'good' bus motor would ever give me trouble,
I have all of the parts here to do an "Expensive Nice" bus motor build thread vs. "Cheap junk"
Would be fun to do that one, but I can't find an excuse to tear the motor apart..