block to trans stud question

[bj]

hey all,

because my type 4 block is a TIGHT fit in my 59, i'm wondering if i can't just drill out the two lower holes and use a nut/bolt to replace the studs?

whenever i install/uninstall the engine I have MUST remove the studs or they will not clear the trans and hit my apron. its a complete PITA, so i'm wondering if a nut/bolt config will be ok to do.

thanks.

BJ

[Piledriver]

Its pretty tight even on later cars, esp if you don't remove the pulley and cut off the little rectangular 'taint on the block above it.

I have tried what you have suggest, but you really need the lower studs to help align things while you stuff it.
If memory serves, I put shorter studs in with slots cut in the end, and once it was in and the top bolts in/centered in the trans, I unscrewed the lower studs and ran the full length ones in from the front.
...in the end my son decided to make the rear of his car removable, as he had a dorked rear valence, we had a clean rear clip, also the trans mount I made (like a 10 degree 091 mount but much lower) unbolts and the engine and trans can get pulled in minutes as a unit.

Something prevents using bolts, but it has been a long time, and I last did it with a 091 trans in there, so what I recall may not apply.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with bolts as long as you get the length right.

[Marc]

..Something prevents using bolts, but it has been a long time, and I last did it with a 091 trans in there, so what I recall may not apply...There's absolutely nothing wrong with bolts as long as you get the length right.

I don't have a Type IV case handy to confirm it, but if memory serves the lower stud locations, if they could be drilled all the way through, would not allow clearance for a nut, even a 15mm wrench-size one. On a carb'ed case the fuel pump boss is right there on the RH side, but even on an FI case I don't think the hole would come through where there'd be enough room around it, and even if there were it wouldn't be a flat surface so spot-facing or a custom-made tapered washer would be needed.

On AutoStick Type Is, there are no studs - long bolts through the bellhousing thread into the engine case instead. If the engine was being removed/installed frequently the threads might wear out, but if that were to happen it shouldn't be a big deal to repair them with a Time-Sert or Helicoil. If you've already mastered the technique of mating the eng & trans without benefit of the studs for alignment you could just continue doing that, but the temporary short stud that can be twirled out with a screwdriver is a handy trick (it's how you set a waterpumper head & gasket in place until you get a few bolts started) - even having only one would ease the process of wrestling the clutch disc over the mainshaft.

[Piledriver]

I agree, there is absolutely no way from the engine side.

I was talking about running bolts in from the trans side, after removing short temp studs (or better, shoulder bolts with heads cut off) for the alignment/engine stuff.

[bj]

sorry, i've been in texas for some training and have only now logged in to check this thread...

for some reason, i can't run bolts from the trans side due to the side cover stud/nut being in just the right place to forbid it's use. :-\

i do have the drop the engine again anyhow, and will definitely try the "screwdriver" method.

thanks!!

BJ

[bj]

sorry to bring this back up...but i realized that slotting the stud to use with a screwdriver won't work for me. the driver side stud will not allow any room for a screwdriver to fit in the area due to my trans being in the way.

i have an IRS dual side case cover trans converted to swing in my car...the stud on case covers is what is in my way...now...that being said...i'm wondering if anyone knows if i can replace the stud/nut with a bolt instead? i'm not sure if the stud is in a blind hole, or if it goes all the way through the case?

thanks.

BJ

[Marc]

It's a blind hole. Don't know that you'd gain much compared to just chopping the stud short, though. Take the nut off, remove the lockwasher and put the nut back on. Cut the stud as close as you can to the nut, then take it off and put the lockwasher back on...shouldn't be any taller than the head of a bolt would be.

[bj]

Marc,

I have rather thick Erco side covers...the stud is already short, but the stud sticks out enough to be in way of taking the out of the trans/engine studs.

If I can take out the stud, it looks like there will be clearance so that I can then use a bolt instead of using studs and all the BS that comes with that.

BJ

[Marc]

Oh, I think I get it...you need NOTHING in the way until you get the eng-to-trans stud in place. Bolt will work (or you could just 2-block the stud and put it back in)...blind hole, no oil will come out.

[bj]

Yes sir...that's what I need.

Thanks for the help.

BJ