2365 Porsche Type IV Edit now 2.599cc edit again now 2650cc

[Piledriver]

A motor built with low compression for the cam profile will run hot and suck gas.

A 2.6L motor will be hard to build with that low a compressiuon and decent squish area.

If the builder suggests semi hemi cutting the heads or a huge deck to get a stupid low dynamic compression ratio, quickly grab all your parts and go find another engine builder who is not an idiot. There are some real tools out there.

A "reasonable" 2.6l T4 should should still make ~180-200 hp, unless its a low compression slug. with a ~near stock cam.
Note that T4s have much better cooling and chambers than T1s and the european 411/412 and 914 models had ~8.2-8.5:1 static CR from the factory. More cam requires more compression to work acceptably, the stock cam had almost zero overlap at .040".

A std 2L can easily make 135 HP with typical 42x36 valved heads, and that's a pretty mild motor, maybe a Web86.

[Glasser]

Awesome info thank you.

I can't remember what he said he was going to do for CR but it will be a pump gas set up. He is also doing something to the intakes (a spacer maybe) to compensate for ethanol gas. I can't remember what he said. I believe something to do with the heat soaking or lack of.
It's Fat Performance that is doing all the work. I'm super impressed with Greg, he has spent a lot of time with me on the phone. So much that I can't retain all the information he has given me.
I've got the engine and trans in a crate. Just waiting for some parts I ordered and it's getting all shipped off to him. Fat works closely with Rancho so we've got a trans set up that will compliment the HP and Torque of this engine as well.

[Piledriver]

OK, your in the hands of the great in that case then, FATs been building racing t4s ~since VW started selling them..
...although i suspect it will be capable of a wee bit more than 120rwhp.

Last fellow IIRC has a used big FAT off road motor and was very disappointed it didn't pull huge HP numbers.
(see below)

[Piledriver]

It was easier to scroll down the page, STFs "search" doesn't work too well, as "FAT" is too short a word to be valid.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 1&t=121359

Was pulling high 11s in a drag car, on eventual teardown it had a old Weber (IIRC now Webcam, but the "weber" name dates it as positively ancient) hydro cam in it---very mild, for off road use, it probably faceplanted by ~6500.

Once he gets it back together (with appropriate cam and serious head refresh) he'll probably clear 200 HP with great ease, in the low 11s or maybe 10s.

[Glasser]

I've been give three HP ranges (basically three different cam shafts.) They have their own cam grinds. I have been told the big cam will be in the 210 220 range. I've decided not to mess around and let them do a full turn key with break in and dyno. Once he gets the crate we are going to go over all the details again. I'm sitting on the fence with the big cam. I'm just not sure how streetable it will be. Then again do I really care. It's not a everyday driver..... If she stays cool, stays in tune I can deal with the rest.

[Piledriver]

With a light buggy and a huge motor a wilder cam will not be much of an issue.
Getting the power to the ground may be, the reduced low end TQ may oddly be a benefit.

You might want to consider a ZF or Torsen differential or such.
Some sort of traction control setup may also prove useful, you haven't mentioned any EMS setup so I assume carbs and a distributor?

(The pics of your car in the OP are MIA, probably lost in the server move)

[Glasser]

I want a bad ass car so this is good to hear. Yes car is light. 1400LBS wet, no driver.
When I talked with Rancho they did mention a limited slip dif. Again once I send it all down we will be going into things in greater detail.I will ask about a Torsen differential. I had to look that up. Looks like a sweet set up.
44 Weber IDF's . I asked if i needed a fancy disy with crank trigger etc. He said Nope. 009 with blue coil is all your going to need.

[Piledriver]

A 009 with a blue coil and webers "works" for some definitions of "works".

It will (usually) idle, and it will run, but you will be leaving a lot on the table, including any hopes of "real car" style drivability or reliability. FI as a rule wont make any more peak HP than carbs set up perfectly, but that's assuming you are changing your jetting several times a day... and that's the least of it.

Its hard to compare a full programmable EMS setup w/decent direct firing coils vs "a pair of webers and a 009..."
I have had both, and some variations in between.
I like the "old skool" look, but I never want to go back.
(you can have both if slightly devious)

The Webers were a constant battle to keep the idle fuel circuits open, although the DIY cable pull linkage solved the constant sync and constant fuel squirting issues. (Search for Synclink)
The new "Jet Doctor" kits supposedly fix the crap in idle jets issue.
I punted long ago.

I still use a 009, in a way. Its gutted, and I have a missing tooth wheel in it, support full sequential fuel and spark.
The "wheel" is a RC truck spur gear with a tiny touch of TIG to fill in a "missing tooth".
A 72 tooth will just fit in a 009 body.

[Glasser]

Budget is a factor, the Canadian dollar sucks right now so a slick set up may be in the future.

[sideshow]

Fuel infection and skynet control is not all ways the answer to the 009/IDF proven combination.

Something that can be driven and lacks the creature comforts of a phone booth is no substitute for something that get bricked because a zero was in place of a one. Points and Webbers will always be more impressive than a radiator.

Run what you have.

[Piledriver]

Fuel infection and skynet control is not all ways the answer to the 009/IDF proven combination.

Something that can be driven and lacks the creature comforts of a phone booth is no substitute for something that get bricked because a zero was in place of a one. Points and Webbers will always be more impressive than a radiator.

Run what you have.

Well put, but if you ever get a chance, I'd go there.
A reasonably high % of "help me" posts on the STF or TOS have something to do with curing the "009 flat spot" and or tuning Webers, esp plugged idle jets, or some combination of both.

A 2.8L with a 009 flat spot off idle probably still making more power there than a 1600DP at WOT and peak HP RPM...

[Glasser]

I am hoping there will be no flat spot or I will be very disappointed I'm going to give Fat the benefit of the doubt and see how it goes. I like the KISS approach.

[Type 4 Unleashed]

A 009 can be nothing but trouble.

I would recommend to shop for an early Bosch Type 1, 010 or 019 cast iron dist and add a Pertronix.

They use to be cheap but unfortunately no longer the case. I think they still can be had from $100 to $200.

[Glasser]

I can only assume since Fat will be putting their stamp on this engine that they either have some tricks they do to a 009 or they are not having any issues with the way they set things up. I told him straight up if I needed a fancy electronic ignition system with crank sensor I would be willing to go that route. So he had the opportunity to take my money and he didn't.

[Type 4 Unleashed]

Don't assume what you don't know.

You can trick out a piece of crap all you want, but a 009 is still a piece of crap even after it's tricked out, the ignition curve is all wrong the weights are the wrong weights and so on.

http://www.vw-resource.com/009_history.html

The 009 is a Bosch dist, and I believe was made for industrial engines, it never came on ANY VW Vehicle, where the 010 & 019 did, and as a marketing ploy they took the 019 had it painted Blue put it with the Bosch Blue coil and called them the Blue Screamer kit. The 010 & 019 are proven performance dist's, the 009 is a proven piece of crap. Don't assume I know what I am talking about, Google Bosch 010 & 019 then the 009 and see what you find.