Help with first type 4 build

[Glen75]

Looking to rebuild my 79 type 4.

I was thinking of leaving it stock crank, but running Scat 103mm like this

TYPE IV/914-4 103MM & 105MM BIG BORE KITS
J&E Forged Aluminum
Cast Ductile Iron Cylinders (Heat-treated)
3-Piece Segmented Performance Rings

Kits w/ JE Forged Pistons
15178 103mm x 24mm Piston Pin w/1.180" (80mm), 1.281"(75mm), 1.361" (71mm stroke) $709.00

And running these heads

https://au.vwheritage.com/shop/bay-bus/ ... StartRow=1

I would like a set of H beam rods, but not sure what length i would need.

I was thinking of running a small low boost turbo on it, maybe 8-10psi max so i can keep the revs down.

So i guess i'm after any advice, especially around Cam and Rods selection with above parts.

Thanks in advance

[Clatter]

Need more info...

Bus?
Beetle?
Street?
Race?
Driver?
Toy?
Pump gas?
Race fuel?
Rich?
Poor?

Etc. Etc.

[Piledriver]

You are going to need a lot more head for a 2.4L.
Those are good stock replacement heads for a 2L bus with tiny little valves, that runs out of steam at 4500.
Several places turn those excellent castings into performance heads.
Stock 1.7L heads probably outflow them significantly as they are, with the same valves.

Iron 103s etc have head sealing issues NA, much less boosted.
The cylinders from EMW have the best reputation as to staying round of the iron jugs.

I don't know what SCAT is selling for jugs these days, so ask questions.

The "heat treated" marketing blurb suggests possibly FAT jugs, which IIRC are heat cycled AAs or perhaps EMW jugs.
(EMW has their own casting made by an OEM supplier in Mexico or Brazil)

The aluminum/nickasil jugs from EMW in 100mm bore would be a thick wall option with smaller head and case register.
Buy them from EMW with the pistons, not direct from QSC--- EMW provides quality control you don't get buying direct, and its needed badly.

If you can swing it financially, a set of Nickies from LN Engineering are by far the most likely to be successful setup, and can be had with custom JEs of your spec for whatever bottom end crank/rod combo you decide on.

The Hbeams aren't going to buy you anything unless you plan to spin the 2.4 over 7k, and that will require pretty much top end serious $$$$ heads to be of any actual use.

For turbo use the stock rods are actually stronger, and there's absolutely no need to spin it to the moon with a turbo.
The rebuilt/clearanced/lightened 2L "Super Rods" with 9mm Carrillo bolts are still available from RIMCO.
Not cheap, but probably the best stock length turbo 2L T4 rod option.

Those kits are for stock length rods unless it says "stroker".

EMW sells stock length Hbeams for 2.0L crank journal, as well as longer ones for 22mm pin setups/strokers.

With the 24mm pin, the small ends are scary thin, I personally wouldn't run them with heavy 103mm pistons.
Better suited to a NA 2L with a big cam and heads, or a big bore with the lightish V8/NASCAR strutted pistons,
(or JEs/Wisecos based on the big bore quad pistons, with custom pin etc that weigh almost nothing)

If you really are in love with boost, 94mm and stroke it has a far higher chance of living awhile, particularly if pushing a Bus.
(79 would be late bay Bus only w/squareports, at least here, but as noted you haven't said what its in)

Its still going to need bigger valves and porting to make any serious power.

93mm (1.8L jugs) and Subaru pistons and rebushed rods/added stroke might produce some more configuration options and the absolute thickest cylinder walls for boost, but it is not a simple buy stuff and bolt it together proposition---

It never is if you do it properly, even building a "stock" motor.

I hate to say it, but from a purely financial as well as reliability standpoint, a 2.5L Subaru turbo motor swap wins hands down if you can stomach hacking up the vehicle for water cooling.

A big Type4 motor built properly to last will cost a lot more, and will be very hard pressed to be as reliable as a stock Subaru, particularly in boosted form.

[Glen75]

Need more info...

Bus?
Beetle?
Street?
Race?
Driver?
Toy?
Pump gas?
Race fuel?
Rich?
Poor?

Etc. Etc.

Hi there, sorry should have included a few of these.
Bus, street, regular driver, pump gas. Budget approx $10k Au for long block

[Clatter]

Pile called it..

Search Jake's old archive forum here on how it goes building a bus motor that will last.

If this is your first type 4 build, you are asking for trouble trying to go turbo.
Even a mild stroker will keep you plenty occupied, IMHO.

Jake's old 'Powerstroke' combo would be an interesting search for you over on his old forum.

Hopefully, you have lots of experience building hot motors,
Because a bus motor is really pretty stressed in stock form, and making more power that doesn't fry takes some skill.