Cheap Junk 1971 Build

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Re: Cheap Junk 1971 Build

Post by oprn » Mon Jun 04, 2018 7:40 pm

Engine in and running. Oil leak from the bell housing, no big surprise as the flywheel did have a wear pattern from the old seal. Found an exchange flywheel and reset the crank end play new seal and put it all back in.

No dice! Still leaks oil at the same place and the same amount! Cam plug? Hard to tell, clean oil so hard to spot the origin. So for now it marks it's territory where ever it stops. Just like any good German Shepard!

Other than that running very nice, hardly know it has a cam in it! So much bottom end on this engine and pulls well up higher too Not sure how high - maybe 4500? Tach quit. Not pushing the rpms yet with this fresh engine.
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Re: Cheap Junk 1971 Build

Post by Piledriver » Fri Aug 10, 2018 10:28 am

It's very easy to cut the outer orings on pushrod tube install, and not only from pinching them.

The bores in the head are "as machined" and almost always have sharp edges/points waiting to shred an oring.

I like to polish up the entry and bores with fine Scotchbrite and wd40 on a split dowel in a drill.
Obviously easier to clean up // works better if the heads aren't already assembled/installed.

A couple of other "classic" spots to leak are a (missing) bolt for the thermostat pulley and not-quite-sealed screw in plugs.
I always us permatex or locktite anerobic pipe thread sealant on those so you can get a good seal without overtightening them.

Never use teflon tape on an engine.
I, for one, regularly embrace our new robot overlords, as I am the guy fixing the robots...

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Re: Cheap Junk 1971 Build

Post by saggs » Mon Aug 13, 2018 5:49 pm

Hi Clatter, I haven't searched the whole thread but was wondering what you're using for a dizzy on this engine and are you able to get a decent vac signal off the carbs? Are they webers? I'm using an 050 on my 1911 but am not real happy with it. Nice work by the way and great documentation, I'm not that patient. :roll:

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