Shoptalkforums.com

What is a good and easily available solution to dissolve oil? I want to clean the oil passages, i have a round wire brush for pipes, but in the end I want to wipe the passages clean with small pieces of cloth soaked in something that will leave everything clean.

NEVER use cloth. Always paper towels. A small piece of cloth frayed or lost will wreck oil passages. Many an engine has died this way.

Normal kerosene parts washer solvent with a detergent additive.....and a quick rinse with a spray can of something hotter like a carb cleaner.....and then compressed air. Ray

Paper shreds easier than most types of cloth.

I would actually suggest keeping any scrubbing to the nylon brushes and compressed air with kerosene based cleaning solvent mix as suggested.

I kept looking for wire brushes for pipe interior and they were always too short and too large in diameter. So today I was looking through some other topics, and saw a cleaning kit with several brushes and I realized: they are weapons cleaning kits. Easy to find also here, at almost any sports shop. And the kit has a wire brush, a nylon brush and a wool brush. Easy task to clean now.

TZepeSH wrote: ↑Sun Oct 08, 2017 11:57 pm I kept looking for wire brushes for pipe interior and they were always too short and too large in diameter. So today I was looking through some other topics, and saw a cleaning kit with several brushes and I realized: they are weapons cleaning kits. Easy to find also here, at almost any sports shop. And the kit has a wire brush, a nylon brush and a wool brush. Easy task to clean now.

what a great idea, i did a quick search and found this
eBay item number:
172852991700

cheap as chips

Maybe a trumpet snake?

http://www.guitarcenter.com/Yamaha/Trum ... adType^PLA

6mm and 9mm gun cleaning kit. Very nice, they have wire brush, nylon brush and wool brush. So I have everything to clean properly. 10 bucks well spent.

Looks a good buy, eBay? Do you have an item number?

No, local sports shop.

I've done a bit more work on the engine block, meaning drill and tap for NTP plugs and took it to a local shop for a good cleaning. Good thing, because the shop can also send the crankshaft, flywheel and clutch for balancing to 1 gram, and it costs ~200Euros. When I buy the clutch I will consider this. Pics of the engine block tomorrow. Very good investment for 15 bucks. I did not sand blast the crankcase, although it could have been done. I did not see any benefit.
Now back to the plugs: I have read on NPT torque, and most info I find does not indicate a torque, but says 2-3 turns from finger tight (TFFT). It seems a bit too much with 3 turns. On another site it says 1.5-3 turns, but also some torque values:
1/8: 10ft*lb or 15Nm
1/4 15ft*lb or 20Nm
3/8 20ft*lb or 25Nm
Do these values seem right? This is for aluminum components, for steel components the torques are higher by 5 units.
Another site gives much lower values: 7in*lbs (0.79Nm), 16in*lbs (1.81Nm) and 23in*lbs (2.6Nm) respectively.

Also, a small recap on the Loctite: 567 on NPT plugs and head studs, right?
I could screw some of the head studs back in all the way just by hand, which seems a bit strange, since most of them were pretty hard to remove. Shall I put some 263 or 243 on 2-3 threads and then 567, so they are both fixed and sealed?

when I fitted my plugs I just tightened by feel that just comes from experience , if you haven't fitted a lot of tapered plugs it's a good question you are asking because it is easy to damage the case by over tightening . I the first set of torques look just little high to me and the second set seem too low. another thing that comes to play is what are your plugs made from. alloy ones don't need to be as tight as they expand the same as the case .yes put 567 on the plugs .

I just used 567 on the studs that go all the way into the case and need sealing , the others I wiped a bit of anti seize grease on them.

The 567 turns into ~concrete after a few good heat cycles.
Don't worry 'bout it.

Go for the lower tq value. Cracking a case sucks, and the Teflon in the 567 acts as a lubricant, making it put more force on the hole for a given tq. You can always make them tighter.

Tq specs for NPT usually assume either dry or with teflon tape, latter roughly same as 567 before cure.

Making a WAG the higher spec is for dry, lower spec'd are lubed with pookie.

Aluminum or brass in aluminum is my preference due to expansion ratios in same ballpark, either with 565 or 567.
Don't let it be a show stopper, tho.

BUT:
Never install aluminum plugs in an aluminum case dry.
If assembled aluminum plugs in aluminum, they will become one, in a bad way, usually before you get it to seal.
Going into mag case its a non issue.

The plugs are anodized aluminum. I will try 1.5-2 turns from finger tight. I might have tapped a bit too deep, meaning finger tight leaves maybe 1 thread out of the hole. I saw in other topics that the plugs are sticking out a bit. Mine will be a bit in. When tapping, i made some threads, then took the tap out, tried the plug in, then make 1-2 turns more with the tap, test again. Dry, it seemed to seize maybe after one turn with some leverage. I did not want to test tightening more, not to damage the threads. Maybe i misunderstood how deep to go with the tap. Maybe it was better to leave 3 threads out at finger tight... I hope this will not be a problem, the plugs shall not restrict oil flow.

Pics! Nice and clean, I hope this week I will install the plugs and head studs. Next week I intend to borrow an electronic scale from work and balance connecting rods and pistons. Big end first, small end last, right? What are the areas from which to remove material?

You might want to take a look at this build, the guy is good and explains conrod balancing.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853&start=45