My first type4, probably 2056

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Clatter
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Re: My first type4, probably 2056

Post by Clatter » Wed Dec 13, 2017 7:00 pm

Piledriver wrote:
Mon Dec 11, 2017 11:36 pm
T1s with all the weird port shapes can require a lot more work and sometimes extensive welding on the manifolds.
^^This is totally true..!!^^

(The result of me messing about with type 1s lately.. bad form!)
"Oh, You don't need to do all that... The valve seats are just going to fall out of it anyway!"
- Doug Ellsworth

Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853

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Piledriver
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Re: My first type4, probably 2056

Post by Piledriver » Fri Dec 15, 2017 12:31 am

1.5mm is a good starting place.
You can also use a ball mill.

I like to slightly bevel/smooth the valve side edge OD of the rocker above the "foot" if the adjuster so you can easily get your fingers on the foot to give it a spin when checking zero lash.

No clikey-clickey and it spins? Its adjusted right.
(assumes cold// CrMo pushrods, or aluminum pushrods on a smoking hot engine. You can guess which is preferred)
I, for one, regularly embrace our new robot overlords, as I am the guy fixing the robots...

TZepeSH
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Re: My first type4, probably 2056

Post by TZepeSH » Fri Dec 22, 2017 1:53 pm

I built the short block once again for measurement. Deck with shims: #1: .056, #2: .056, #3: .055, #4: .052. With .056 deck I would have 9.4CR, and with .052 I would have 9.5. I think I will use a fine grit paper on a glass table to give #1, #2 and #3 a few moves. If I get them to .054 I think it would be fine.
Next, prepare the rockers for Porsche adjusters. Then, take out the springs off an intake and an exhaust valve and leave only the softest one (I have double springs) and get the geometry sorted.

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Gnasha
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Re: My first type4, probably 2056

Post by Gnasha » Sun Jan 14, 2018 5:22 pm

probably an dum question, can you get away with not fitting piston rings when checking deck heights?

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Piledriver
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Re: My first type4, probably 2056

Post by Piledriver » Sun Jan 14, 2018 9:24 pm

Gnasha wrote:
Sun Jan 14, 2018 5:22 pm
... can you get away with not fitting piston rings when checking deck heights?
Certainly, mocking up without rings is strongly recommended...much much easier and safer for the rings.
I, for one, regularly embrace our new robot overlords, as I am the guy fixing the robots...

TZepeSH
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Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2004 1:55 am

Re: My first type4, probably 2056

Post by TZepeSH » Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:39 am

My second baby was born, so this build is again slowed down a bit, at least for a few months.
I took some steps forward, preparing the rockers for Porsche swivel feet adjusters. I grinded .060 and chamfered the exit holes. Then, I removed the double springs from a cylinder head and put some very soft springs to work on the valve train geometry. I put some 1.5mm washers under the rocker shaft, and used the "bubble level" method to adjust. Pretty close to stock pushrods, 271mm. I have chromoly pushrods to be cut to length.
Exhaust at 0 lift, half lift, full lift. Got me to 273mm long pushrod.
20180116_184603.jpg
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20180116_184631.jpg
Here is how I got it at half lift, and another shot from a different angle (hard to see in picture, with bare eye seems to be as it should, axis of adjuster inline/parallel to the axis of valve)
20180116_184252.jpg
20180116_184454.jpg
Same measurements for intake, I got 272.2mm long pushrod.
20180116_192017.jpg
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And the level.
20180116_191822.jpg
I will re-do the measurements in a few days, to double-check I got everything right. Measure twice, cut once. I will make different intake and exhaust pushrods, even if the difference is just 0.8mm.
Next, check the fitting of the fuel pump and order some more parts: clutch, fittings, exhaust, fuel pump, trigger wheel and Mini Cam Sync just to name the bigger ones... Also suspension and steering will be updated, so money have to go there too.
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