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why not just buy the proper bellows .there is a few for sale om the samba i say them the other day
it's alot easier

The type 4 bellows requires massaging of the flange on the rear clip. I'm not going to make the fit the engine, instead make the engine fit the car. So for me the type 3 bellows is the correct one.

No, it doesn't require any modifications to the body. All I did was trim the rubber ears off and it fits inside the hole.

supaninja wrote:The type 4 bellows requires massaging of the flange on the rear clip. I'm not going to make the fit the engine, instead make the engine fit the car. So for me the type 3 bellows is the correct one.

Tom Notch wrote:No, it doesn't require any modifications to the body. All I did was trim the rubber ears off and it fits inside the hole.

supaninja wrote:The type 4 bellows requires massaging of the flange on the rear clip. I'm not going to make the fit the engine, instead make the engine fit the car. So for me the type 3 bellows is the correct one.

OK, now I want one
My motor sits so high it probably wouldn't work.
(I guess I could still fix that)

I ended up using a plate cut to the pattern with a 2" simple ring of sheet to clamp a cut down T3 bellows to welded on. Changing the belt is a bit more work than I'd like, but they last a long time on a T4.

The flat plate clears the fan by <1/16" with a little massaging, seems to make for a decent dynamic seal.

My type 4 in type 3 conversion.

The car is an 1967 1600 TL with aprox 100 000Kilometers on the odo. One previous owner before me. Sadly she parked the car outside in 1978 and it stood in the same place until I got it in 1999.
It has been stored for ten yerars but now it is finally running and drivable. But it is not finished yet. The paintjob has to be done and for the moment I am converting it to FI, an MS1 v3.0 injection based om as most stock parts as possible.

The car today.


The engine is an 1,8litre 412 AN block, inside is a crankshaft and rods from a 2 litre GE bus engine cylinders abnd pistons from the same GE engine. The cam is a CB 2202. Heads are 1,8 S-heads from the 412 AN engine. 41x36 valves. The compression is with the dished bus pistons and flycut heads now 8,1:1.

It has two Solex 36-40PDSIT carbs from the AN-engine. But at the moment I am replacing them with a stick injection povered by MS

AN engine block with the 71mm crank.


210mm flywheel.


I made it easy. The 210mm preassure plate fitted with a center ring from a KEP preassure plate. Fits like a glove in the -67 swing gearbox.


Rear engine mounts for the 412 rear engine bar.




Test fit in the car.


I had to cut of some metal in the original rear engine mount. But I didn't wanted to completly remove it if the original engine has to recovered.


Yippie parts delivered


The heads is back from the shop.


New valves and doubble valvesprings from a pair of 044 heads that was ruined.


Work in progress.



My special dipstick/oilfiller adapter.


The air intake from a 412 wagon with two adapterpieces clamped on it.


How it fits wit a cut down type 3 air bellow



To be continued...

Dude thats an awesome build. I might have to steal your idea with the bellows setup. I'm liking it so far, keep us updated.

Moin,

just found this forum. I also made a coversion on my 69 notch and the last really important thing to do is a good and sealed
attachment of the bellows for cooling air.
At the moment I did it with the 411 plastic air duct and the earcutted Typ4 bellows.
But thats not working well, cause its not very good sealed. When Im driver in the city (low speed) i can smell my exaustgases throu the heating system.
Now i am interessted in David, Lule solution. Great idea ! Whould like to see more pictures, maybe from the site.

(sorry for my english, just learned it in school )

Pictur of my conversion:

Early this summer I ended up stretching my bellows adapter out to the same size/shape/position as the body air outlet, and made up a silicone-coated fiberglass fabric flex duct, (really just wraps around and pulls tight) uses plastic coated "aircraft wire" w/a tension spring on one end on both sides, stays tight and leaks no air. On/off in seconds, and cost me ~$5 and 20 minutes of my time.

One could make some steel strip flanges and secure the engine side fabric bits to the engine side of the adapter and it would be even better, I just haven't had any issues or reason to pull it off.

I can get the new "bellows" and adapter off, change a belt, and back on in <two minutes, easy access, no fighting with it.

They don't make the stock T3 bellows like they used to, and you have to cut it down to use... Expensive total PITA, and not needed.

Will take pics ASAP, forgot to take them when I did it a few months ago, no issues.

Porsche 911 mounts !

Pile,

Can you Pretty Please post up a pic or two of your bellows adaptor set-up?

I have any/all options available right here, and am about to start cutting....

repost of my type 4/3 bellows mod.

http://i836.photobucket.com/albums/zz28 ... 1ed8a3.jpg

http://i836.photobucket.com/albums/zz28 ... 2ca327.jpg

my phototbucket folder...pic-whore away!

http://s836.photobucket.com/user/Angelo ... y/Fastback

Clatter wrote:Pile,

Can you Pretty Please post up a pic or two of your bellows adaptor set-up?

I have any/all options available right here, and am about to start cutting....

Oh, man, sorry I missed this, I redesigned my setup to do away with the T3 bellows and use a spring-tensioned section of silicone coated fiberglass cloth instead, works much better and takes seconds to remove/install.

I'll try to get some pics this weekend.

just read through this topic, as I'm about to take on the swap as well

Was just wondering how long Pile's weekend will take can't wait to see the set up

oops... I think I took the pictures and then got distracted by something shiny, will post up asap.